Nearly ended up in Austria.....

We decided to get an early start and head to the Roaches, well Hen Cloud actually.... Whilst waiting for Shaw et al, I saw another car full of climbing gear and people at the prearranged meeting spot. I presumed it was someone else who wanted to come to the Roaches so went to 'have a word'. The climbing gentleman in question didn't want to come to the Roaches, and was actually going to Austria and expecting to meet someone also. I declined his offer of a trip to Austria, because, well I was a little under prepared, and as far as I know they don't have gritstone in Austria!

Nearly made it on this attempt

Why oh why can't I get to the top....

We headed South, pushing through the cryptosporidium zone without incident and risking a coffee stop (risky strategy!). The Roaches looked splendiferous as we parked directly under a very green looking Hen Cloud. We decided to head over to the main Roaches area and started by playing around on the boulders where Shaw was determined to get up a no handed slab problem - which he did.

Climbers on the top of Valkyrie and walkers

We then set to work on routes, and picked some fairly tough ones to warm up on! As we all had different guidebooks it was interesting to see how a few of the routes we climbed had been upgraded over time. The Roaches are now managed by the Staffordshire Wildlife Trust (formally the Peak District National Park Authority but they ran out of money.....) and I think they are letting the area 're-wild', which is nice to see. It was interesting seeing grazing cattle at the belay when topping out of some routes.

Shaw on the mini Sloth

We climbed 6-7 routes, all good but the notable ones for me were Saul's Crack (HVS) and Wallaby Direct (HVS) because they were so strenuous, and after them I was completely knackered! I'd forgotten how physical (but brilliant) climbing at the Roaches is.

Shaw working Joe's Arete

Me playing on the aerate too

We didn't make Hen Cloud, saving that for another trip, and after a final play on Joe's Arete we headed for home as a few photographers started to gather and take position, ready to capture the setting sun on this fabulous landscape. The consensus from the group was that rural Staffordshire is great, and I think I heard someone declare its wilder and better than Derbyshire - but coming from Derbyshire I'm not sure I can go that far..... maybe the water from the coffee stop had affected peoples brains after all....... Another great grit day out.