The JMT Part 2 - Tuolumne Meadows to Reds Meadow

Bears - As mentioned earlier I'm not overly comfortable in bear country. I haven't had any particularly bad encounters, but to a 'Brit' it just doesn't seem natural being in a country and sleeping in a tent with these big lumps of muscle wandering around (and Rangers always insist that they are not a threat as long as you do a-z). I think that my fear stems from when I climbed in this area with my good friend Steve. Steve was pro bear and would often drag me from the campsite to see the bears in the woods 20m from camp 4 (insisting we get far too close to get a good picture). Enough was enough one night after an 8 hr climbing day (El Cap, East Buttress 5.10b), I was asleep in my tent, but awoken by banging and Steve. At a camp next to us a big bear was raiding the next door bear locker/barbecue (left open). It seemed unconcerned by the banging/people as it grabbed food and wandered past my tent. I also remember watching the sunset from Lembert Dome (Tuolumne) and walking down afterwards in the dark and hearing a bear crashing through the undergrowth and growling close by. After these experiences (I could list more!) I mostly slept in our hire car on these climbing trips (and got teased for it). 

Anyway back to the JMT....... Day 4 nearly spoilt the trip (for me). I woke up requiring excessive explosive toilet visits and feeling very rubbish (not sure if it was the heat, altitude, water or food). Last night the smoke had drifted in from the nearby 'Rim Fire', but I'd felt well. I couldn't hike and this created a dilemma. J&R had to carry on (and left with vague plans of meeting up again) and stick to their timetable and I felt like I needed a day off in the tent. Abi was understandably sad and worried as we hadn't envisaged splitting as a group at this early stage.

Great evening light [it was also smokey from the nearby 'Rim Fire'] streaming through the trees at Tuolomne (Rob looking cool)

By midday I had to make a decision, and even though I felt awful (if I'd been at home I wouldn't have moved) I decided to carry on a see how we did. We slowly headed up Lyell Canyon, resting every 20 mins. I wasn't eating either so it was a battle of wills. Even in my depleted state I could appreciate that Lyell Canyon was amazing, a 10 mile long Canyon, big river and meadows at its centre surrounded by Peaks. We met an inspirational lady part way up who was going on a 'spirit quest' into the wilds for 6 days and her profound words kept me going. Because we were slow, and had set off late dusk was falling as we eventually got near the end of the Canyon. In the short sections of trees we hollered out in case of bears (and saw some bear 'scat' on the trail).

Heading up the beautiful but seemingly endless Lyell Canyon

Feeling ill as the sun starts to disappear

We'd hoped to catch up with J&R that night, but after 10 miles up the valley, it was getting dark and the trail started to go uphill (1000ft climb). This is when we bumped into Brian and Maggie. Brian saved me that day by 'popping' up when I felt I was done and inviting us down to camp near them just off the Trail, he even lit us a fire and left us some wood (thanks guys).

Glad to have made camp after a long day

Next morning we got up early, no breakfast (I felt on the mend at least) and rushed up the Trail hoping to catch J&R before they left their camp. They were very happy and surprised to see us and after we hadn't showed the night before and they weren't sure where or when we would see them again. We headed up and over Donahue Pass (11,056ft) and the scenery got even more spectacular and alpine. Before this Pass is where we first bumped into 'Alaska Man'. We later found out we was called Kevin, but this lovely, friendly Alaskan Park Ranger on a year off will always be 'Alaska Man' in my mind (sorry Kevin). He recounted a brilliant John Muir tale as we sat and rested by an alpine Lake.

Meeting Kevin 'Alaska Man' as we get into the Alpine zone (note the glaciers behind)

Near the top of Donahue Pass with views back to the impressive but long Lyell Canyon from the day before

Top of the pass and entering the Ansel Adams Wilderness

We soon started getting iconic views of Banner Peak, and Mount Ritter (notable Sierra Peaks) as we headed on. The rock/geology was changing from igneous (The granite of Yosemite area) to a metamorphic landscape (more fractured/loose, dark in colour, jagged). This section I think of as the 'lake district', with Garnet Leak, Thousand Island Lake, Emerald, Ruby etc etc. The views from Island Pass (10,203ft) particularly memorable as was the high wind! I could have spent a day looking at the scenery from this point if time had allowed us the luxury. We pushed on and stealth camped at Garnet Lake (don't ask) out of the wind. At this point my MSR filter didn't really work, filtering 1ltr took 30-40 mins (later fixed). Robs Katadyn filter worked much better and didn't give him problems the whole trip. All the Americans seemed to be using 'gravity' systems which were slow but much lighter.

One of many great log bridge crossings

I could have spent a day here on Island Pass looking at the views

Abi saved the day by spotting this beastie (2-3") trying to get into Janet's bag

View down to Thousand Island Lake

One of many 'paddles' in the many Lakes!

After a cold windy night its all down hill (lots) now to Red's Meadow. Another great day with great views. Went through an area with big trees blown across the trail (blowdowns) and cleared. It reminded me that Tanya had said that last year when they did the PCT sometimes they spent a whole day going through a section of 'blowdowns' that hadn't been cleared. Must have been really tough, on the 180 miles we hiked only 2-3 tree's were across the trail and 100's had been cleared.

First light on Banner/Ritter from Garnet Lake

Must need big chainsws to keep these trails open

Harsh when the only food is me (sweat)

A great night at Reds around the fire watching the stars

 I'd been here before and had promised the group a memorable experience in the free geothermal hot showers. Wrong! They had been closed 3 years earlier because they cannot effectively be monitored for safe water quality by environmental health (sad). Red's Meadow is a cool stop after another 'bunch' of days on the Trail. There's a store, cafe, campground and Ranger station (linked by road to the town of Mammoth). We picked up our first resupply package (yay - it was here), had a shower and gorged in the cafe. Discovered 'a la mode' - basically they seem to sell fruit pie 'a la mode' all over this area and it is 'in the style', meaning basically you get a scoop of ice cream with it! Used the first hiker buckets, we put in loads of clif bars as we had far too many, and I sadly put a pair of old sandals in as I was carrying 3 pairs of footwear due to a pre-hike injury. We also took a couple of meals out of the bucket!

Just arrived, time to big up the mail (food parcel) and see what goodies are in the hiker barrel

Darn good burger (double)

Classic Americana decor in the cafe!

 So all going well after the illness scare (I was worried it was Giardi). We were all starting to feel acclimated (American term we kept hearing/were always asked about) at this point, and the routine on the trail of getting up, eating, hiking, eating, camping, eating and sleeping was becoming second nature and pleasurable for its simplicity...........but will it continue....... (of course it will, sorry next blog post soon!).